China Family Getaways: Songyang

住进隐秘森林之巅

Say it quietly but Songyang is a beautiful place that tourism is yet to tarnish. 

It is located in the mountains of southwest Zhejiang and has over 1800 years of history. The whole area is dominated by medium and low hills, surrounded by mountains, and dissected by the flow of the Songyin river. 

我想悄悄地告诉你松阳是个美丽的地方,还没有作为旅游景点被污染。它位于浙江西南部的山区,有1800多年的历史。整个区域以中低山脉为主,群山环绕,中间穿过松荫溪。

We got there by taking a high speed train from Hongqiao, it took approximately two and a half hours. We then took a pre arranged taxi to the top of the mountain. 

It is best to set out early and we were able to get to the hotel by 1pm. It is certainly best to set off early and to do the journey in the light. It does make you realise what you can achieve when you wake up early. There would be some Saturdays that I would not leave the apartment until after 1pm but on this day I was at the top of a mountain drinking tea.

我们坐高铁从虹桥站到丽水,大约两个半小时的行程。然后我们坐上事先安排好的出租车抵达山顶。我们出发地比较早,下午一点前到达了无羁民宿。我们建议早点出发,可以在阳光下旅行。此外,有时候非常早地起来确实会让你意识到你可以实现什么。很多个星期六我都会直到下午1点以后才离开家,但是这一天我却已经在山顶惬意地喝着茶。

The National Geographic described Songyang as “the last mysterious place in the South of the Yangtze River”.

Its strength is the pure simplicity. 

You can roam around the forests and sit at the numerous terraces and ponder away the day. It is an ideal place to reflect on things and there is a certain rural mystique to the village. 

The village was saved by a famous artist named Mr Li, who brought a lot of publicity to the village. If he did not propose to save this village the government planned to relocate the village during the urbanizing project during 2000-2010 in which 300 natural villages disappeared leaving hundred-year-old houses empty. 

《国家地理》将松阳描述为“长江以南最后的神秘之地”。它的力量在于是纯粹地简单。你可以漫步在森林里,坐在无数的梯田里思考着,舒服地度过一天。对于思考来说,这是一个非常理想的地方,这里有一些农村的具有神秘感的小村庄。一位著名的艺术家李先生发现了这个村庄,他为这个村庄带来了很多的对外的宣传。如果不是他提出要拯救这个村庄,政府在2000年到2010年的城市化项目中,重新建设了这个村庄,在这个项目中,300个自然村庄消失了,留下了百年老屋。虽然松阳的许多村民的生活方式和价值观似乎已经改变了,但他们仍然感谢这位著名的艺术家说服了政府,在村里建立一个绘画中心和许多的观景台。

Whilst a lot of the other villagers living styles and values seems to be changing in Songyang they still thankfully remain thanks to the famous artist convincing the government to build a painting centre and numerous terraces across the village.

A new road being built will make the village more accessible in the future and the high speed train has only been built recently making the village more well known. Refreshingly, the only person you may see would be an old gentleman sat on his terrace watching the day change to night. (see the picture below)

By contrast to the traditional village, the hotel, Arkadia Retreat, has a modern interior that is both well designed and comfortable. 

They have a great wine selection and a host of ayis who are comfortable cooking both Western and Chinese cuisines. You certainly will get hungry after clambering up the various trails, and it was wonderful to return to a hearty home cooked meal with most of the food grown nearby.

一条正在修建的新公路将会使这个村庄在未来更容易到达,而高铁也是最近才建成。在村子里你能看到的一个独特的人,可能是那位坐在他的老屋大平台上的老先生,抽着烟看着白天变成黑夜。

与传统的民宿相比,这家无羁民宿拥有更为设计精良、舒适的现代化室内设施的设计和考量。在餐饮方面,他们有很多的葡萄酒选择和厨师也很会做西餐和中餐。当你在外散步,爬上各种小径回来后,一定会感到饥饿,而这个时候,民宿的大厨阿姨们肯定会让你吃得很好,几天内把你养肥!

I came here with my wife and son and we chose to stay for four days allowing us sufficient time to get acquainted with the village. 

We were able to bring my son along on all the hikes and although the peaks would sometimes be challenging it was certainly beneficial for him to get away from his IPad and reduce the dreaded screentime.

我带着我的妻子和儿子来到这里,我们选择呆个四天,可以有足够的时间来熟悉这个村庄。我们带着我的儿子一起远足,尽管有时山峰会很有挑战性,但这肯定比呆在家里玩Ipad要好多了! 他在小山坡上被蜈蚣迷住了,通过这次行程,还成为了区分癞蛤蟆和青蛙的专家! 这种和大自然的互动是他在上海所没有的,这使得这次远足变得更特别了!

He would be mesmerized by centipedes and he became an expert in differentiating between toads and frogs. This natural interaction is something that he does not get in Shanghai and made the hikes that little bit more special.

The most striking aspect of the village is that it has no tourist groups, blaring megaphones or metal railings. The trails are wild and it is more exciting to explore. 

If the hill trails fail to tickle your fancy, there is a waterfall close by where you can swim. You need to go on a hike and remember to bring hiking boots and waterproof shoes as the trails require you to cross the stream. The water is ideal for splashing but a little shallow.

这个村庄最引人注目的地方是它没有旅游团,没有导游的扩音器,也没有金属栏杆。这些小径是原生态的,探索起来更令人兴奋!如果山径不能满足你的幻想,那么附近的瀑布,你可以游一个泳。在这里一定要去徒步旅行,记住提前要带上登山靴和防水鞋,因为山涧道路有时候需要你穿过小溪。

Shen Hui in the Northern Song Dynasty once described the village in his poem The First Visit to Songyang as possessing, “the unique scenery of which can’t be seen anywhere else”. 

For me the unique element was that there were no people. I could sit on the terrace or wander the trails meeting no one. The video below really gives you a sense of the serenity that exists here.

It was an ideal escape from the throngs of People’s Square rush hour. With no flights out of Shanghai for the foreseeable future – it has led to our family being more adventurous and exploring the beauty that is right at our finger tips. 

北宋沈晦在《初至松阳》一诗中这样描写道:“惟此桃花源,四塞无他虞”。对我来说,这里独特的原因是没什么人。我可以坐在民宿露台上,也可以在小径上漫步,不与任何人相遇。这是避开人民广场高峰时刻拥挤人群的理想去处! 在可预见的未来,如果继续没有航班可以离开上海——那么这里将让我们的家庭活动变得更有冒险精神。

去探索触手可及的美景吧!

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